Raising a floor is the cheapest flood protection you will ever buy, and only if you do it before you build. Here is how to decide the height.
Raising a finished floor is trivially cheap while a house is on paper and painfully expensive afterwards. It is also the single most effective thing an ordinary homeowner can do about flooding.
The question is always the same: how high?
There is no single national answer, because the right height depends on your ground, not on a rule of thumb. Four inputs feed the decision, and your engineer combines them.
1. Mapped flood susceptibility at your exact coordinates. This tells you whether flooding is modelled at your point at all, and at what level. See the flood susceptibility brief.
2. The highest recorded water at or near the property. This is local knowledge, and it is the most concrete input you will get. Neighbours, the barangay, water marks on old walls. Ask about the worst year anyone remembers and get a height against something physical.
3. Ground elevation and the level of the road. A road that has been repaved several times may now sit above the lot. Your floor has to clear the road, not just the ground.
4. Storm surge exposure, if you are near a coast. Surge is mapped separately and it can be deeper than rainfall flooding. See the storm surge brief.
Your licensed engineer takes those and adds freeboard, which is a safety margin above the expected level. The margin exists because records are short and the next event can beat the last one.
Three approaches, and they are not equivalent.
The choice is an engineering decision that depends on soil, budget, and how deep the water gets. It is not a preference.
Raising the floor and leaving everything else at ground level solves half the problem.
A raised floor protects the inside of the house. It does nothing about:
So raising the floor is one measure inside a design, not the design.
A hazard screening reports mapped susceptibility, elevation, and distances at a point from public national datasets. It does not specify a floor height, and it should not, because that number depends on soil, structure, drainage, and a safety margin that only a licensed civil or structural engineer should set. Use the screening as the input to that conversation, not as a substitute for it.
CheckHazard does not replace a professional geotechnical or engineering survey.